Corporate responsibility

The traditional production chains of the textile industry are full of social injustices and negative environmental impacts:

  • Children pollinate hybrid cotton plants in India for hours on end.
  • Uyghurs are forced to work in cotton fields in China.
  • Dilapidated steam boilers blow up multi-storey sewing factories in Bangladesh.
  • Pesticides in the cotton fields are destroying the soil and synthetic fertilisers are doing the rest.

The list of human and labour rights violations and environmental destruction in textile and clothing production countries is long – and is at the expense of the weakest links in a long supply chain.

Exploitation? No thanks!

Many years ago, Dibella decided to leave the exploitative systems in Asia’s textile and clothing industry. Since then, we have been successively switching to fibres and textiles from production facilities that are certified to high sustainability standards.

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Our procurement model

Supplier selection

Disclosure of the supply chain and at least one valid social and environmental certificate are requirements for entering into a business relationship. We favour vertically producing suppliers who preferably have spinning, weaving, dyeing and sewing facilities under one roof and are OEKO-TEX® STeP certified. Therefore, we work with a manageable number of suppliers. The declared aim is to achieve long-term, trusting cooperation. In concrete figures, this means: In 2024, 96 % of total sales were generated with nine strategic suppliers. These strategic suppliers are STeP and/or GOTS certified or certified according to other recognised high standards such as Fairtrade, OCS, GRS, RCS. The business relationship has existed for years. All Dibella suppliers sign our anti-corruption principles and the supplier contract, which excludes child and forced labour, among other things. We take responsibility for the impact of our actions, and the notion of making amends is integral to our approach.

Supplier evaluation

Every year, we draw up a supplier evaluation that takes into account the usual market criteria such as service, reliability and price/performance as well as certifications of the production partner. One criterion with a high weighting is certificates categorised according to environmental/chemical management or social management/raw materials. The evaluation is carried out by the purchasing department in consultation with the management. The results of the evaluation are communicated to the suppliers and discussed with them. With the help of our supplier management, we recognise where our suppliers need further support. If there is a specific need for action, we define a corresponding improvement plan together with the production partner, the implementation of which Dibella follows up and is happy to actively support on request.

On-site visits

Certification to high standards is a reliable criterion for assessing whether suppliers share our values. However, they are not the only aspect. Personal dialogue with production partners is just as important to us. This is why we regularly visit them on site. Our suppliers are based in Pakistan (Karachi region, Faisalabad, Lahore), India (Tamil Nadu region, Mumbai), China (Jiangsu region), Turkey (Denizli province) and the Czech Republic (Jilmenice region and Děčín, Ústecký kra). Our purchasing managers and our textile engineers also visit the production sites. They advise suppliers, jointly define environmentally friendly, technological adjustments and, if desired, implement these together in the production facilities. We value the personal dialogue not only with the supplier’s management but also with workers in the production facilities. This enables us to find out at an early stage where the problems lie. Of course, we are aware that language barriers present clear limitations here. For a more comprehensive impression, we developed the “Suppliers CSR Checklist Visit Report”. The checklist deals with issues relating to safety in the workplace, health and environmental aspects and documents our visit. Here, too, we are aware that completing the checklist reflects our subjective perception and that there is still room for improvement.

Our greatest current challenges in the supply chain

Despite our commitment, we also see challenges in our supply chain, which we consider in the course of our own risk analyses. Our risk analyses are updated at least once a year and supplemented as necessary. Firstly, we use the MVO risk check to determine the country risks in relation to textiles. The named risks are analysed using the evaluation scheme: Relevance and probability of occurrence and detection are identified and assessed by us. The risks identified are prioritised taking into account their extent, scope and potential for elimination. At the same time, we define specific measures on the raw material and supplier levels to prevent or mitigate potential risks.

We explain the five core risks below

RAW MATERIAL

The natural fibre cotton offers unsurpassed skin comfort for textiles, coupled with a soft, warm feel. We refer to this raw material as “white gold” and make a conscious distinction between conventional and sustainable cotton fibres. From an environmental and social perspective, conventionally grown cotton causes problems.

According to our production partners, the conventional raw cotton used in our products primarily comes from Pakistan (Sindh, Punjab), the USA and Brazil (Matto Grosso).

CmiA cotton from Africa (Burkina Faso, Ivory Coast); GOTS/Fairtrade cotton from India (Telangana and Odisha).

WHAT EXACTLY ARE THE PROBLEMS WITH CONVENTIONAL COTTON?

By purchasing genetically modified seeds, cotton farmers become financially dependent on biotech companies, from which they often cannot escape on their own. The pesticides used during the growth phase are not only deadly for pests but also for many beneficial insects and microorganisms. The soil loses its fertility. Pesticides also damage the health of farmers because they often lack the necessary protective equipment. The vital resource of water is used to irrigate the plants in the hot and dry cotton growing countries and is no longer available in sufficient quantities to humans and animals. The use of defoliants to harvest cotton harbours health risks for farmers and also damages the fertility of the soil. Another problem is child and forced labour in the fields.

WHAT SOLUTION DO WE ALREADY OFFER TODAY AND WHAT SOLUTION ARE WE STRIVING FOR?

In order to improve living and working conditions in the textile chain, Dibella is committed to sustainably grown cotton and strict certifications that allow traceability down to fibre level.

We believe that the combination of the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and Fairtrade textile labels that we use offers a very good solution for largely eliminating all social injustices and negative environmental impacts of the cotton industry. However, price-sensitive sales markets are currently not ready to recognise the added value of the products in monetary terms. We consider the use of CmiA (Cotton made in Africa) certified cotton to be another suitable and more price-conscious alternative. The label fulfils our strict requirements. Therefore, we will switch our core range to cotton with this label in the long term.

(see explanation of Dibella’s certificates below)

CHEMICALS

Our raw fabrics are finished in the dye works, because hotel guests expect clean textiles in brilliant, long-lasting white. We also supply the healthcare sector with boil-proof and chlorine-resistant colours. Proper handling and the use of environmentally friendly chemicals are especially important to us.

WHERE EXACTLY DO PROBLEMS WITH CHEMICAL MANAGEMENT ARISE?

In developing and newly industrialising countries, wastewater from dye works is often discharged untreated into rivers and returned to the water cycle. Chemical residues damage the environment and threaten the ecological balance. This causes diseases to spread among the residents who use the contaminated water as drinking water.

At textile companies, improper handling, inappropriate storage and inadequate labelling of chemicals lead to accidents. Residues of harmful chemicals in textiles are also suspected of causing skin irritation or serious illnesses.

WHAT SOLUTION DO WE ALREADY OFFER TODAY?

The OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN label guarantees that materials have been tested for harmful substances and produced in environmentally friendly factories and in safe and socially responsible workplaces. As proof, textiles must fulfil the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 and the production facilities must be certified in accordance with Sustainable Textile Production (STeP) by OEKO-TEX®. The latter also offers a high level of transparency, as the production companies and countries can be traced via a product ID.

As part of a joint project with a Pakistani supplier, training courses in chemicals management were held. The aim of the project was the successful SteP certification of the production partner, which the supplier received with good results. The SteP certification system enables us to take an integrated view of production, combined with a dynamic improvement process.

WAGES

We see supply chains as human chains. We want the people involved in manufacturing our products to be able to make a living from their work and achieve a decent standard of living. In contrast to minimum wages, which are usually set by law, living wages are based on the actual costs incurred. The factors housing, food and transport are included. In addition, a 10 % surcharge is planned for expenses such as education and health.

ANALYSING THE PROBLEM AND FURTHER ACTION

In reality, wages in most textile production countries are below the minimum subsistence level. In our annual CSR supplier interviews, we survey the amount of wages paid to employees on the clothing lines and the methodology used by the supplier to calculate the living wage. On this basis, we first analyse the wage gap, namely the difference between the wage paid and the calculated living wage.

We have also used various calculation tools to calculate the living wage for the regions in which our suppliers are based. As different tools delivered very different results in some cases, we decided to work with the data basis calculated by our suppliers. Depending on the supplier, the data was calculated using the Basic Need Wage method, internally conducted interviews, SAI and BSCI templates or the Anker method and assessed in independent audits (STeP/GOTS) by independent third parties. Our wage gap analysis shows that, as a rule, well-trained employees receive a higher wage than the statutory minimum wage, whereas “helpers” consistently receive the statutory minimum wage. All suppliers pay voluntary benefits, some of which are extensive, such as free vegetables, free transport, bonuses and/or offer further training, medical care, kindergarten visits, etc. All these measures do not directly increase employees’ income but they do have a positive social effect.

SOLUTIONS THROUGH RESPONSIBLE PROCUREMENT AND SOCIAL COMMITMENT

Our strategy is to promote the payment of living wages through responsible procurement. In 2024, our strategic production partners are OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN (SteP) and/or GOTS certified. Both standards require the payment of wages that are sufficient for the basic needs of employees and their families (living wages). However, production partners will not be able to take the step from statutory minimum wages to living wages overnight. We are supporting the path towards this goal, for example, with the “Inflation compensation” project implemented in 2024. In this project, we have contributed directly to a higher income for the seamstresses and sewers of the Dibella clothing line at a Pakistani supplier.

As a further measure to promote living wages at raw material level, we have linked GOTS-certified textiles to the Fairtrade standard. This company has made a name for itself in particular through its fair pricing policy. Cotton farmers receive a minimum price for their cotton that covers the costs of sustainable production. A bonus is also paid, which is often channelled into projects for the village community. Our close co-operation with the Chetna Cooperative in India also enables us to carry out our own education and training projects locally. For the “Empowering girls through education” (School Equipment in Rasimetta, India – GoodTextiles Foundation ) school support project, which is being carried out via the GoodTextiles Foundation in the period from November 2024 to November 2026, Dibella provided 14, 840 euros. The project enables children to receive a good education, facilitating their path to a qualified career.

CO2

We aim to counteract climate change and reduce our CO2 emissions to protect the environment. We calculate emissions using Climate Partner’s CO2 calculator, which is customised to our supply chain.

WHERE EXACTLY IS THE PROBLEM?

The cultivation and further processing of the natural fibre cotton we use takes place mainly in Asia. Textile production requires energy, which causes CO2 emissions. The transport route from Asia to Europe is long and causes further CO2 emissions. The aim is to continuously identify and implement potential savings. To this end, the (renewable) energy use of our suppliers is analysed and evaluated.

WHAT SOLUTION DO WE ALREADY OFFER TODAY?

We prefer to co-operate with vertically integrated manufacturing companies. In-house production, i.e. numerous production steps under one roof, goes hand in hand with short distances.

For our OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN/SteP-certified products, compliance with prescribed emission limits to reduce the CO2 footprint at the production sites is mandatory.

Our textiles are shipped by container; we avoid air freight. We also co-operate with Heppner, an environmentally conscious logistics partner. To offset our own Dibella CO2 emissions, we have launched the Dibella Forest reforestation project in India. (dibellatextiles.com/en/dibella-forest)

CHILD LABOUR

Education is the key to a self-determined life. We are against child labour and promote education, especially for the children of the cotton farmers in the Chetna cooperative.

WHERE EXACTLY IS THE PROBLEM?

Children support their low-income parents and make a financial contribution to their livelihood by working in cotton fields or textile factories.

Schools are often located a long distance away from cotton farmers’ mostly remote villages. Due to a lack of financial resources, many parents cannot afford school fees and transport to school. For our GOTS and Fairtrade certified textiles, we know cotton farmers and their families because we can trace our supply chain back to farm level. Here, we specifically promote school education. Due to the lack of tracking systems, this is not possible for the cultivation of conventional cotton.

WHAT SOLUTIONS DO WE ALREADY OFFER TODAY?

We want to make our world “fit for grandchildren”, and children are particularly close to our hearts.

With the GoodTextiles Foundation, which we founded, we have carried several school projects in India in cooperation with customers and the Chetna Cooperative. The particularly severe impact of the Covid-19 pandemic and school closures in India prompted us to re-evaluate the school projects in autumn 2021.

Even if we are focusing on the farm level, because this is where we see the best possible solutions, we also take possible child labour in textile companies very seriously. Our products that bear the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN seal are subject to the German government’s minimum social requirements, which stipulate the ban on child labour in accordance with the ILO Convention.